Cutting Your Fabric — The Straight Way

I was asked recently, “How do I make sure my fabric is straight for cutting?” Great question. Mainly because before laying out any project you want to be certain that your fabric is straight or square or straight on grain.

My first response was to explain how to line up your fabric with the selvage edges lined up even and then either striking a line on the edge (90 degrees from the selvage) and cutting it with scissors or cutting is with your rotary cutting tool. That works and is the easiest method. I rely on this method most of the time.

Ah but, then…..my home economics teacher crept from way back in dark hallows of my memory and screamed at me “Pull the threads to determine the grain!” Oh yes. Way back in the dawn of time, when sewing was still taught in schools, our very first sewing project was to make a simple apron from 1 yard of fabric (if that much) and we began by making sure our fabric was true to grain. We pulled a thread. It was tedious. It was boring. It took too long. All I wanted to do was get to that sewing machine and sew. But, you know what? It works. It really does work. And this is how it works.

Think back to any type of weaving you may have done in your childhood or just take a really close up look at your fabric. Threads running along the selvage edges are the weft threads. The weft threads are the long threads on the loom and the threads running from one selvage to the other are the warp threads. (the selvage is where the warp threads are woven back through to the opposite weft edge that creates that edge) So, a warp thread (cross-grain)and/or a weft (long-grain) thread are going to be an indicator of the true grain of your fabric. Are you following me?

Once you have washed and dried your fabric lay it out on your cutting surface. Determine where the shortest edge is along the selvage. Either selvage edge. At about a half an inch from the shortest point you can make a cut into the fabric about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long.

Make cut into the selvage edge of fabric

Make cut into the selvage edge of fabric

Now pick out one cross-grain thread, one of those warp threads and gently pull it. Continue to gently ease and pull the thread all the way to the other selvage edge.

DSC_0096

When it has pulled far enough that you can see where it is wrapped at the opposite selvage edge you can make a clip in the fabric at the thread. If the thread breaks pull out the one next to it. Slow and gentle will get the thread pulled all the way across the width of your fabric.

DSC_0100

This is where I lost patience as a teenager and just wanted to go sew.

DSC_0101

Once that thread is pulled out you will see where you need to cut to make your fabric perfectly straight.

DSC_0115

Now do the same at the other end of the length of your fabric.

But, what happened if you do this thread pulling method on your beautiful printed fabric and the images don’t look straight? Well, think about where the fabric came from. Was is a good quality fabric or was it from a bargain bin? The printing of fabric is quite the process and with many things there is always lots of room for error. Did you know that fabric today can be printed on a large format Hewitt Packard printer? In any case, if the original fabric isn’t fed straight on grain into the machine that is actually printing or dying the fabric, the finished image will not be straight. You can pull threads until the cows come home. Or you can cut until your blade gets dull, your fabric will be straight on grain but, the image will not.

To avoid such aggravation you can take a quick, close look at your fabric before you have it cut in the fabric store. simply unfold about a yard or so from the bolt and fold it from selvage to selvage and look at the image on the fabric. If it looks fairly straight you should be fine to use it in your projects. If it look crooked no matter how square you try to fold it, you should probably put it back and move on to plan “B”.

I hope all this information helps and I hope it makes sense. Hopefully it comes in handy the next time you are looking at fabric for a specific project that requires your printed fabric to be straight such as for a pillow cover or for curtains. Or even to help create beautiful drape in a garment you are making.

Posted in Sewing, Sewing, Fabric Stores,, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Our Super Size Life

Yes, we Americans love to live large. We love big meals. We love big vehicles. We love big homes. We love big parties, big plans, big bank accounts, big hair, big closets, big pets…..if it’s big we are all about it! We even love the Big Box Stores. They are great! If you need something, anything, we no longer have to waste our precious time running from one end of town to the next, stopping at the hardware store, the grocery store or the department store to buy socks. We don’t need to schedule time to get new tires put on the car or the oil changed. It’s all available under one roof. One stop, one store, a couple of hours and we have completed our “to do” list. You can even grab a bite to eat (and have it super-sized, if you choose). Simple, easy, convenient.

I am guilty of it. My time is valuable. I want everything to be easy. I would love to live a more simple life style. I love being able to accomplish all my errands in one shopping trip. But, lately I am becoming aware of some trends that are happening in our small city. In cities large and small all over our country.

Those cute, little, quaint, specialty shops are slowly disappearing. That favorite restaurant where the waiter and the owner knew us by name and what our favorite meals are have closed. The garage where I had established a trust with the mechanic has closed and  pay-at-the-pump gas pumps have been installed.

Our clothes, shoes and most of our automobiles are no longer made in our country and now our families who worked so hard to bring us the services of grocery, clothing, automobile, hardware, meals and entertainment of all kinds are slowly being push away by our super-sized, living large life style. It’s sad. A lot of these merchants are our neighbors.

I work part-time in a retail store. A real fabric store. It is family owned and has been in business for 36 years. Within the past decade the store has been experiencing more and more down swings. At first, it was blamed on the economy. The recession was difficult for a lot of businesses. Some never recovered. And some I feel, have been able to hang on a little longer but, are really fighting a losing battle. But why? It it really just a matter of convenience? Do we really value our time so much? Or are we just feeding into big marketing?

I sew. I love to create. I love the feel of fabric. The texture, the colors. My ideal therapy has always been to head to the fabric store. Not always to buy but, to see, to feel, to be inspired. By working in the store where I am now I have come to appreciate fine fabrics, quality fabrics. So, it really bothers me to realize that big box fabric stores are such an attraction to people who create. I hear customers complain about the cost of the fabric in the store. But, they don’t realize that the quality is much better than they could find at those other stores. Sometimes I shop for fabrics online. Mostly for novelty fabrics that I can’t find locally or for a print/color that isn’t available at the store where I work. The quality isn’t always as good. I know that I am lucky to live in an area that has fabric stores. Big box and otherwise. Many people live in areas where supply is limited or not easily available.

There have been several out-of-state visiting customers to our store that tell me that all the fabric stores are gone from their hometowns and surrounding areas. I just can’t imagine losing that. (Although, I do have to confess that I probably have enough fabric in my stash to last until my dying days and not run out but, that is yet another post. I am not a hoarder. I am a collector. LOL)

It’s sad for me to think that small businesses are disappearing and being pushed out by bigger chains when those chain stores aren’t offering good quality. Does anyone seek quality any more? Do we expect the best for ourselves? Is more always better?

Posted in Sewing, Fabric Stores, | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

One More Birthday Sewing Project

It wasn’t our final birthday of the month but, this is my final project that I made for birthday sewing this month.

I had purchased this fabric with something else in mind. I always have something in mind when I purchase fabric. Otherwise how can I justify purchasing more? LOL! One day while I was working in my sewing room, I was trying to decide what I could whip up quickly for my stepson’s birthday. I turned and looked at the red and white poke-a-dots and suddenly knew that it had to be boxer shorts! My stepson is 24 so, it just seemed appropriate (or it could be just my sick sense of humor).

I have been wanting to make a pair of 5 panel boxers but haven’t found a pattern yet. One day I plan to create a pattern from an old pair from my husband’s underwear drawer. Until then I dug through my patterns and found Butterick 5286 ~ Father & Son.

boxer short pattern

It’s mainly a pattern from pajamas in both men and boys sizes. The shorts option has a fly and that was what I was wanted to make.

My stepson is roughly my husband’s size so I used his measurements.

Poke-a-dot boxer shorts

I really like the way they turned out. I hope that he likes them enough to wear them. He said that he would bring them back if they needed any adjustments. I don’t think there is enough fabric left to make a pair for myself. But, there is enough to make a pair for my oldest grandson. His birthday is coming up at the end of March.

Posted in Sewing | Tagged , | Leave a comment

More February Birthday Sewing

My second project for the month is a casual shirt for my husband. He like Hawaiian style shirts. He already has several in his closet so I don’t know why I was compelled to make him another but, another is what he got.

Casual shirt

I am offering a class at the fabric store where I work part-time to make this shirt. It is a great beginner shirt making project. The class is coming up in April so if you live in the area check out the class calendar online — http://www.lesfabriquesinc.com

There are a lot of fun classes coming up including a corset making class. Doesn’t that sound like fun?!

Posted in Sewing | Tagged | Leave a comment

February Birthday Sewing

Okay. So I started in January as one of these gifts has to travel a long way around the world. But, there are still a lot of birthdays in February in this house. (and unfortunately, I have missed sewing for some of them…sigh…)

First up was a special request for an art smock for my artistic granddaughter. I had made a jumper for her several years ago from Favorite Things pattern from Blossoms and Blooms. I just love this pattern. It’s so cute and it makes up a reversible jumper and matching bloomers. I have not made the bloomers yet.

Blossom & Blooms

I used a laminated cotton for one side and a red chevron from Riley Blake for the other side.

reverse chevron

It was requested that the smock have some length added and also a pocket. The pattern has sizes up to size 5T. I added 3 inches to the length to make it long enough.

I don’t mind sewing with laminated cottons or vinyls. It requires just a little bit more attention than sewing with regular woven fabrics. I pin in the seam allowance to avoid unnecessary holes. I could also tape or secure my pieces with mini binder clips. And I use a Teflon foot to keep the pressure foot from sticking to the laminate. If you don’t have a Teflon foot for your machine you can attach a piece of tape to the bottom of your presser foot (just be sure to open up the hole for the needle to move freely through it). I have also torn strips of white package tissue paper and laid it on top of the seam that I am intending to stitch. Later you just pull off the tissue paper.

using teflon foot

The Teflon foot glides easily over laminated cotton and vinyl.

pocket on front

Here’s the pocket. I lined it with the chevron. The smock turned out really cute.

art smock

Here’s the finished smock. I can’t wait to see the kinds of art that my granddaughter will produce while wearing this smock.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Some of my sewing so far.

This year has been off to a much slower start than I had planned. (That’s what I get for thinking that I could actually plan anything. LOL) I got sick on New Years Eve and that hung around for just over 3 weeks. Then my computer died. I somehow managed to backup my files to an external drive just days before my system failed so I have been able to recover all my files and my photos. Now I am learning a new operating system and newer versions of some software. Sometimes I feel that I am just too old to do this any more but, then I look around and realize that I have to if I don’t want to be left in the dust — at least any more than I already am.

But, I have been sewing. And I have been teaching sewing. Tonight is the last night of my Couples Date Night Pajama Bottom class at the store. It has been so much fun and I have many photos that I took while making the sample for the class. I will post the whole tutorial at a later date.

Today I wish to show the latest Blank Canvas Tee that I have made. I absolutely love this version.

Image

I made some changes to the shoulder as *sigh* my shoulders are rounding. This also helped with issues that I was having with the neckline. And making these successful alterations has boosted my confidence to try a different neckline in my next top. Yay! I Love it. I used a black knit with a cashmere finish. It is very comfy and warm.

Image

It’s my favorite shirt right now. I did not get any photos of me wearing it yet as the dreary winter sky has not been very appealing for photographing. At least in my opinion.

I have also made an art smock for my grand daughter’s birthday and a shirt for my husband. I am staying busy and I love being able to sew for my family.

And on the topic of weather. We are on the upside of Winter as we are more than halfway through the Winter Solstice. We are turning towards the Spring Equinox. The days are getting slowly longer. The Spring birds have begun their migration from their warmer seasonal homes to our south. I have heard them singing for the past week or so and I saw a flock of robins scrounging for food yesterday while I was on my walk. I am already digging out lighter weighted fabrics and perusing patterns for ideas of garments to add to my Spring/Summer wardrobe (actually the shirt that I made my husband is short sleeved in a Hawaiian print). Now is the time to begin that wardrobe. Have you started your new seasonal wardrobe? What colors do you plan to include? Orchid? I love the color, don’t you?

Posted in Sewing, Uncategorized | Tagged , | Leave a comment

New Year – New Start

With the new year came illness. After the recovery of illness came a computer fail. So, now with the new year, renewed health and a new computer, I truly have a new start. Once I learn the new operating system, I will be on my way. I have lots of projects to share and lots of thoughts to express. I will be up and running very soon.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

My ‘is this timer working?’ face. Or maybe it’s my “I really need a remote shutter thingy for this camera” face.

Taking a selfie seems even more challenging.

Taking a selfie seems even more challenging.

At any rate, I should have posted this a year ago (or so) and I should learn more about posting to my blog (so it doesn’t take mw a year to post).  What’s that saying about teaching an old dog???? Don’t answer that. As you can see from the two pics my hair either grows really fast or I am really slow in posting to my blog.

I love this pattern and this fabric and this dress. I can’t wait to make more. I have other projects to finish and many more that I have finished and need to post. I am working on it, I promise.

Posted in Sewing | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Sewing Machine Review and Map the Sewintists

I purchased a new sewing machine. It’s a Singer® Curvy ™ 8763. It’s was on sale at a local dealer for less than half the manufactures suggested retail price. I couldn’t pass it up.

 ???????????????????????????

It has 30 stitches.

???????????

It’s super simple to thread.

????????????????

It even has an automatic needle threader.

And a drop-in bobbin. (I love drop-in bobbins)

??????????????

And the stitch quality is really nice.

??????????????????

All in all it’s a great little machine. I am really impressed! So much so, I went back and purchased another! Now why on earth would I need another sewing machine. Well, with a stash as large as mine it really is the only way to tackle it. LOL! I wish that was all it would take to tackle my bins and bins of fabric and mounds and mounds of ideas. I kind of have a similar mentality about cleaning supplies. If I keep buying them then my house will be clean – right? Okay, that’s another couch session (and one that I have been working on correcting). I made the purchase of the 2 sewing machines because I have finally been able to arrange a venue for teaching my sewing classes. I am so excited that the opportunity has come about and even more excited that it’s taken off in a huge way.

The first class that I am offering is to make Pajama Pants to children 8 years to 12 years old. I feel comfortable inviting no more than 6 children into a class as that is a lot of little fingers to keep track of around sharp, moving needles. At any rate, the class filled up the very first day it was advertised. I mean within 12 hours time! And there were still more that were interested. So, another class has been added and yet another will need to be added in order to allow all the children that are interested an opportunity to participate. It’s very exciting.

So, my very supportive husband suggested that with the interest that my classes have generated and the sale price on the machine. I should really go get another. So, I purchased 2 within a weeks time. I now own 5 sewing machines. Sounds crazy. But, I will use the 2 Singers and my Huskystar 215 for the sewing classes.

I am curious thou….how many sewing machines do serious sewing enthusiast own? Including sergers, home embroidery machines, hemmers, etc…

Seriously, if you are in the market for a new machine I suggest that you check out the Singer® Curvy™. It’s a great little machine.

OH! More fun stuff! The Sewing Bloggers Goggle Map created by Vicki the Sewing Scientist. Have you seen this? Have you found other bloggers near you? I have just discovered someone near me and I can’t wait to contact her. So check it out.

I’m going to copy Vicki’s directions, just in case:

Here’s how to participate:

  • Open this link to get to Map the Sewintists
  • Click on the red Edit button on the left
  • Click on the blue pin on the upper left of the map
  • Click on your location to drop the pin
  • A box will open that will allow you to add your name or blog URL in rich text
  • Save et voilà!

I would strongly advise people to only pin their general location or closest city, since we don`t want creepers peeping in our windows while we sew in our unders, do we?

Check it out. Get together. Share, share, share.

Isn’t that what it’s all about?

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 6 Comments

Birthday Sewing

Several years ago I had purchased some fabric with hot peppers all over it with the intention of making a shirt for my husband. I even showed it to him and told him what I planned to make. Then, I got busy. The fabric was stored away and well, you know, forgotten.

As Christmas approached as a last attempt for any gift ideas, I asked my husband what he wanted for Christmas. He teased that he wanted a shirt with peppers on it. Well, there just wasn’t enough time for me to get it done before Christmas. So, I made it for him for his birthday which was last week.

????????????????????

It’s very bright. He likes it and has worn it twice. I used the same pattern from a few years ago. He likes the shirt but, it always bugged me that it was too short on his long torso. This one looks much better on him as I added 1 1/2 inches to the length.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment